Tofino and the Clayoquot Sound
Tofino, at the gateway to Clayoquot Sound & on the wild west coast of British Columbia, is paradise for the paradise seeker. Stroll along one of the many boardwalks in Pacific Rim National Park & revel in the majesty of one of the world’s largest temperate old growth rainforests. Each year, over 20,000 Gray Whales migrate past Tofino on their way north. Surf the waves at Long Beach, kayak the islands of Meares, Flores & Vargas, take in a whale watching or harbour tour, try your luck at deep sea fishing, discover the marine life while snorkeling or scuba diving, then water taxi to Hot Springs Cove for a relaxing soak.
Hot Springs Cove:
Black Bear Tours: This area supports a large number of resident black bears. On this trip, usually at low tide as this is when the bears can be seen on the beaches, you can witness these incredible mammals in their own habitat from the vantage of the water. Also expect to see seals, eagles and other wildlife as you cruise along the shoreline. This trip is different from whale watching, as the emphasis is directed to land mammals and concentrates close to shore. Fishing Charters: The Tofino Clayoquot Sound is excellent for fishing. Each charter outfitter will provide all the fishing equipment and tackle you’ll need, and will require a minimum 4 hour trip. Generally 4 people per boat gives you the best value for your money. On these charters, you will enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the Clayoquot Sound, and will likely catch salmon, halibut, cod and other bottom feeding fish. There’s also a large variety of shellfish in the area: crab, clams, mussels, oysters. Sea Kayaking:
Scuba Diving: The West Coast is known as the “Graveyard of the Pacific” and Clayoquot Sound has its share of undersea wrecks. The clear ocean waters allow for extensive exploration. Scuba dives of 30 feet or less make you can feel safe in the ocean environment, and allow you a longer bottom time. You’ll see Wolfeels, Giant Pacific Octopus, Anemones and more. Of course there’s also night, wreck, & wall dives. Snorkeling is great fun for families and friends. You can discover the underworld, floating in one of the many island coves, while seeing Rockcod, kelp greenling, starfish and more. Surfing:
Swimming: There are miles upon miles of beaches to choose from for salt water swimming. If you prefer to swim in freshwater the closest and most accessible lake for swimming is Kennedy Lake. You will remember this spectacular body of water from your journey to Tofino, having passed it prior to the Junction and National Park. The water temperatures vary during the year but can always be guaranteed to be warmer than the Pacific Ocean. If you prefer a warmer body of water to swim in, the local swimming pool which is accessible to the public, is at MacKenzie Beach Resort, about 3km south of Tofino. Storm Watching: Powerful winter storms whip this area, offering a unique sight. Large waves crashing on the beaches, with horizontal wind and rain, make this activity exciting and satisfying. During the winter months surfing is considered to be prime. Galleries:
Golfing: Long Beach Golf Course offers nine holes of championship golf, in a forest like setting. A pro shop compliments the snack bar and lounge.
The Parks, Beaches, Trails & AreaTonquin Park:
MacKenzie Beach: This is the next closest beach, about 3 km south of Tofino. Lots of sand and full sun makes this beach popular. Chestermans Beach and Cox Bay: Two of our local surf beaches located 4 km south of Tofino. Great beaches to view the sunset and when the tide is low, you can walk out to a small island just off from Chesterman Beach. Pacific Rim National Park:
(a) Wind your way along one of the many trails & boardwalks, exploring the gigantic trees and ancient fallen logs in the old growth rainforest…at the top of Radar Hill you can enjoy the panoramic views of the Clayoquot Sound, along with the historical monuments. Many mammals and birds habitat the area, and you’re likely to see some of them: raccoon, mink, & black bear, as well as hundreds of species of birds including the bald eagle and the blue heron. (b) The Wickaninnish Centre overlooks beautiful Wickaninnish Beach… the centre run by Parks Canada provides free exhibits and hourly movies that explore the natural and cultural history of the Pacific Rim. On display are: a whaling canoe, a gigantic mural depicting ocean life, and some whale and other mammal bones. (c) Long Beach, Combers Beach, Schooner Beach, and Wickaninnish Beach… famous as the longest stretch of surf swept sand on the west coast. Radar Hill: Originally built as a radar installation during WWII. From this vantage point, you will have excellent panoramic views of the Clayoquot Sound including Meares, Flores and Vargas Island. There are two distinct viewing areas to take in when visiting Radar. The first offers a postcard perfect view down the hill and beyond to the open Pacific. The second viewing area offers views of the surrounding inlets and islands. Radar Hill Beach: The trail down from Radar Hill to the beach is a challenging trail, and is quite vertical. When you emerge from the forest near the bottom, a large lazy stream of freshwater greets you to your left and a pristine sand beach bowl is in front of you. This beach is also known by the locals as "Nude Beach". Schooner Beach Trail: Mostly boardwalk, the trail winds through cedar and hemlock trees, ascending and descending through a couple of gullies and cross a small bridge. Near the end of the trail, you will descend about 60 stairs to the beach. Once on the beach, if you head to your left past the First Nation Reserve of Esowista, you can walk south to Long Beach. Long Beach:
Spruce Fringe Trail: The entire trail is on an elevated boardwalk that allows you to see the natural state of the forest without doing any damage to the soil. The trail leads through a crab apple bog where you’ll see Sitka Spruce, Hemlocks, and Cedar trees. The Sitka Spruce is unique to this trail as it is one of the few trees that is capable of surviving the salty mists and sand-ridden winds of the open Pacific. Combers Beach: This is another part of Long Beach and is usually the least busy. You’ll notice what the destructive force of the surf has done to the parking lot, with all the wave and tidal erosion. This beach is very interesting with large accumulations of driftwood. Rain Forest Trail: This is another part of Long Beach and is usually the least busy. You’ll notice what the destructive force of the surf has done to the parking lot, with all the wave and tidal erosion. This beach is very interesting with large accumulations of driftwood. From the parking area, you will see Trail “B” first. The trail begins at an old clearing through a cedar and hemlock thicket and finally to the old growth forest. As you descend farther into the forest you are left with amazing silence and awe of a classic rainforest. You will cross over a bridge made from a single old growth log, and will encounter interpretative signs that help explain how the rainforest regenerates itself. Trail "A" is on the other side of the highway. It is essentially the same type of old growth forest found on Trail “B” except that this trail will take you farther up and down the gullies. Expect to encounter about 150 steps. You’ll find interpretative signs along the trail, and there’s some good examples of the very old ‘nurse’ logs. This trail will take you over a salmon stream with excellent viewing opportunities. Shoreline Bog Trail: This is probably the easiest walking trail in the park. It is entirely made up of boardwalk and is completely flat and wheelchair accessible. What makes this trail so interesting is the bog, that allows only certain types of vegetation to grow. Here you will find stunted shore pines that are several hundred years old. South Beach Trail: This trail begins just behind the Wickaninnish Centre and restaurant at Long Beach. Watch for the wheelchair ramp and continue south along this path. The trail winds past Lismer Beach, then continues along a boardwalk. After about 5 minutes walking you will pass another beach, then a short while later you’ll arrive at a beach where you can view some big waves. Even on mild days, the waves at this beach are funnelled between large rock walls and are rarely less than 5 or 10 feet in height. Be sure to keep well away from the rocks, as rogue waves are not uncommon, and have been known to carry people out to sea. If you want photographs of the big waves crashing on rocks this is your place. Florencia Bay: This beach was named after the ship Florencia that wrecked, early in the last century, and from the 1870’s onwards, was known as “Wreck Bay”. Here you will notice the large sand cliffs and boulders. Normally quieter than Long Beach, this beach offers swimming, surfing, and sunbathing. Wickaninnish Interpretive Centre: Originally the site of a spectacular hotel that accommodated many guests for several decades before the advent of the Park, the Centre is now home to a museum, theatre, and restaurant. There are several displays on aboriginal life including a large traditional native canoe. There is a whale display with videos, bones and sculpture. During the spring, summer, and fall, you can view short educational movies in the theatre. The Centre also has a huge mural depicting a gray whale and other marine life found in the National Park. Also at the Centre are washrooms and public telephones. Admission is free. But remember to get your parking ticket for your car. The Centre is open from early spring until mid fall. Wickaninnish Trail: This trails links Florencia Bay and Long Beach. The trail passes through old growth forest dominated by Sitka spruce. There is one small bridge across a gully and in the rainy months, you can expect to have to jump over some fairly large puddles. As the soil becomes more acidic, the forest gives way to a bog that is primarily made up of shore pine. Originally used by the first nations people, the trail was upgraded with wood poles laid across the path, when the pioneers arrived. As crude as it was, Model T’s could drive the entire distance over this “corduroy trail”, so termed because of the resemblance to the fabric. About half way through this trail, you will see and walk over sections of the original trail. Soon, an incline boardwalk will lead you up and out of the bog into a new growth forest. At this point, you will begin to hear the surf of Florencia Bay. Gold Mine Trail: In contrast to the surrounding old growth forests, this trail leads through an area logged in the 60’s. An attempt to plant the area with Douglas Fir failed, because of a lack of specific nutrients in the soil. The forest is similar to one that you would find in the east; very dense with medium sized trees that have not yet lost their lower branches in their fight to compete for the light. The big difference in this forest however are the looming sculptures of stumps, some 10 feet high, which once were massive 800 year old trees. At the very end of the trail, just after you cross the salmon stream by bridge, are iron remnants from the early 1900’s when this creek was panned for gold. When you get to the beach, on your left about 30 feet away you will see a totem. A family of hippie squatters built this back in the 60’s to mark the spot where they lived until the Park was proclaimed and the houses were demolished in the early 70’s. Although the totem is not traditional First Nations, it now holds a place in the history and evolution of the national park. Willowbrae Trail: Most travel at the turn of the century was done by water due to the rugged terrain. This trail served as the overland route between Ucluelet & Tofino and is part of the original “corduroy” road. To access the start of the trail you have to drive south, past “the junction” and turn right on Willowbrae Road. A few minutes up this road will lead you to a parking lot and the start of the trail. This trail is essentially flat and it passes through a forest logged at the turn of the century. When you reach the small bridge near the end of the trail go right, then descend a steep hill and you’ll find yourself at the southern end of Florencia Beach. Half Moon Bay Trail: If you follow the same directions for the Willowbrae Trail, turn left when you reach the small bridge. This will take you through a dense forest. Soon you will find yourself nearing the edge of the forest, and it will change to a grove with giant Sitka Spruce that rely on the ocean fog for nearly 20% of their nutrients. After descending a 100 foot wooden ramp and stairs, you will arrive at the most southerly point in the Long Beach Park. From this small beach, you can enjoy the spectacular vista views of Florencia Bay. Hot Springs Cove:
Walk on the Wild Side Trail, Ahousaht (Flores Island): There are approximately 1000 First Nation residents at Ahousaht, on the southeast side of Flores Island. There’s a store and post office in the village. This area is also the site of Gibson Marine Park, a 142-hectare chunk of public land with a beautiful sand beach and lukewarm hot springs. The Wild Side trail is rich in beautiful old growth forests, cultural significance, sandy beaches and wildlife. From Ahousaht Village, the hike follows a trail that has been used for centuries, to reach the beautiful beaches on the west side of Flores Island. In 1995, under the guidance of the elders from Ahousaht Village, a 16km trail was completed by native and non-native youth as an eco-tourism initiative to restore this vital route. The trail winds its way through ancient Sitka forests and visits two of the most spectacular pristine beaches in the Sound; Whitesands Beach and Cow Bay. Be prepared for a strenuous hike, because the trail ends by ascending Mount Flores, which offers a spectacular view of the Sound. Starting in Ahousaht, the trail features carved yellow cedar signs made by local Ahousaht artists, which tell the stories of Flores Island and its aboriginal inhabitants. The first four kilometers combine beautiful sandy beaches and boardwalk forest areas. For those continuing to Cow Bay, the trail follows the beaches with parts crossing over the headlands where needed. Cow bay is a majestic place that is well worth the hike. In this area, you may catch a glimpse of a Gray whale, or the flight of an eagle or osprey diving into the water. For a unique experience, contract a local First Nation guide who will point out features and historical landmarks along the way. To access this trail, you must take a forty minute boat ride from Tofino to Ahousaht Village. The water taxis leave 1st Street Dock in Tofino at 10.30am and 4:00pm, and leave Ahousaht to return each day at 8.30am and 1:00pm. Expect to pay $14 one way. The Hummingbird Hostel is also located on Flores Island just across the bay from the Ahousaht Village. If you are going there, you will need to advise the water taxi as it has a different drop off point from the village. Note: Hikers going through Ahousaht must register for this trail by contacting Walk on the Wild Side Office in Ahousaht. Ahous Bay Trail (Vargas Island): If you have a full day you can head for the Ahous Bay Trail. To reach Vargas Island, you catch a boat shuttle. You access the trail from private property, the Vargas Inn, so you must ask their permission. Ahous has several kilometers of long sandy beach that is open to the Pacific. The trail arrives on the beach at the southern part, and if you walk north, you will cross over a fresh water stream with fast, clear, running water. This beach is pristine and not heavily visited so your chance of finding beach treasures is quite good. Ahous Bay is also a favourite feeding ground for gray whales so you should find a good spot on the beach and watch for their spouts. Big Tree Trail (Meares Island): In 1984, Meares Island was one of the first battlegrounds in the "War of the Woods". The Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Council has declared the entire island a Tribal Park but to this date, this designation is still in the courts and is still technically part of a cut block scheduled for logging. When you travel from Tofino to the start of this trail, you will pass over or around (depending on the tide) vast mud flats that are critical resting and feeding grounds on one of the major flyways of migrating birds on the west coast. Just before you land on Meares, you will see Morpheus Island on your left. Morpheus Island has been used for centuries as a traditional tribal burial ground and from 1900 until 1950 as the official Tofino cemetery. It is now under the guardianship of Tofino with the condition that no one else be buried there. To access the trail, you will have to catch a water taxi. You can expect to pay $20 to $25 return per person. There are two parts to the Big Tree Trail – the first section is boardwalk and ends at the Hanging Garden Tree. If you look up this giant tree, you can see plants growing in the nooks and twists of the trunk. The second section of the trail loops clockwise through the forest on a trail that can sometimes be very muddy. You will want to follow the flagging tape so that you do not get lost. You will travel by several huge cedars with diameters of up to 20 feet. The age of these trees is anywhere between 800 and 1300 years old, which are some of the oldest and largest life forms on earth. Lone Cone Trail (Meares Island): Directly across the bay from the hostel you will see the peak of Lone Cone. To go up Lone Cone and to use the trail, you must gain permission from the Tla-o-qui-aht Band Office in Opitsat at 725-3233 or the Kakawis Family Development Centre at 725-3951. Once permission is gained, you can access the trail by catching a water taxi. You can expect to pay $25 to $30 return per person. The trail starts on private property and leads up the south side of the cone. After an invigorating climb you will reach the summit. From this point, an impressive 360-degree view unfolds before you, encompassing all the charms of this pristine island network. Lone Cone is an extinct volcano that has not been active for thousands of years. It has always been a prominent landmark to all inhabitants with its looming presence on the north end of Meares Island. The early pioneers believed that if there were clouds obscuring the summit then there would be approaching good weather. Ucluelet and Area
Just a half-hour drive from Tofino, you’ll find the town of Ucluelet. Pronounced "YOU-CLUE-LET", this name originally applied to a First Nations village located on the east side of the entrance to Ucluelet Inlet; the name means “safe harbour”. In the1860’s, European fur sealers established the present site of Ucluelet, on the West Side of the inlet. Originally Ucluelet was accessible only by sea. Packet steamers operated by the Canadian Pacific Railway connected Ucluelet with Victoria. The road that now connects Ucluelet to Tofino was opened during World War II and was paved and made public in 1959. Early industries included: fur sealing, sawmills and logging. With the establishment of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, Ucluelet is fast becoming a destination for visitors from around the world. While visiting Ucluelet, discover the scenic Amphitrite Point & Lighthouse, the Wild Pacific trail, and He-tin-kis Park. You can also visit the Thornton Creek hatchery. Shuttle transportation from Tofino is available.
A Walk in the Forest: The Ministry of Forests and the District of Ucluelet developed this trail. The Trail goes through a variety of second growth forest and juvenile spaced second growth forest. The trail has self-guided signs which explain rainforest ecology. As well, the trail provides information on forest practices in the area and shows some examples of forests that have been harvested and replanted. |
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